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Great Grapes to
Pair with your Holiday Feast
By Ernie
Manzella
In general, special occasion menus include multiple
main courses, such as turkey and ham, along with
numerous side dishes usually prepared in very
different ways. Each of these dishes will usually be
prepared using different spices while some will be
roasted, others grilled or fried or possibly boiled.
All of this results in a blending of divergent
flavors that can play havoc with our usual wine
preferences. For instance, Chardonnays are
overwhelmed by ham; turkey is obliterated by
Cabernet Sauvignon and many typical vegetables and
side dishes such as cranberries, artichokes and
asparagus to name a few, contain elements that twist
the flavors of most wines in the wrong direction. If
this is not bad enough, we have salads with their
greens, tomatoes and vinegar based dressings that,
because of their high acidity tend to render most
wines undrinkable.
True, there are many
stumbling blocks impeding your successful wine
pairing for your holiday feast, but please don’t
fret. There is hope, and better yet there are some
straight forward guidelines that can help you pair
wine with your special holiday menu. First, keep in
mind that pairing wine and food is largely an
individual choice. You should drink the wines you
like with the food you like, and when experimenting
with different pairings the objective is to have fun
with the process. Also, keep in mind that a winning
wine and food combination is the pairing that makes
both the food and the wine better in combination
than either would be alone. This championship style
of combining the elements of gourmet dining makes a
meal a celebration. To help you get started on you
quest to become a “master sommelier” there are some
basic guidelines that can help you maximize your
enjoyment of your wine and food pairings. Consider
the following:
Balance weight and texture
You don’t want your wine to overpower your food, but
you also don’t want the flavors of your food to be
too intense for the wine. Complicated? Not really.
Consider both the weight of the flavors as well as
the textures of your food when trying to find a
balance. Thus, you should pair lighter food with
light-bodied wines and heartier, more flavorful,
richer and fattier dishes with fuller-bodied wines.
For instance, a light bodied fish like sole works
best with a light bodied white wine, like Pinot
Grigio while a heavier fish such as salmon calls for
a richer fuller wine like an oak-aged Chardonnay or
a fruity Pinot Noir for its perfect pairing.
Consider the foods preparation
Is it grilled, roasted or fried; what type of sauce
or spice is used? For example, roast chicken goes
with most red and white wines, but it particularly
lends itself to a fresh and fruity but light-bodied
Pinot Noir or the fresh fruit flavors and good body
of a Chardonnay. Conversely, chicken cacciatore with
all of the tomato and Italian spices would not be at
its best with Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, but would
pair best with a medium red like Chianti
Balance Tastes
You need to use multiple senses here since
flavor is a combination of aroma and taste; you also
need to consider all of the dishes included in the
meal in unison. For instance, a mildly flavored food
like roast turkey pairs well with both light bodied
white wines, such as a mildly oak-aged Chardonnay,
and light reds, such as Pinot Noir, but in the
context of a Christmas dinner featuring a spicy
sausage stuffing, cranberry sauce and other strongly
flavored side dishes a more intense wine, such as a
rich red Zinfandel would be much more appealing and
satisfying. If the dish is roast pork and it is
being served lightly seasoned, choose a light red
wine like Pinot Noir. If you plan to use pepper,
garlic and other spices than a bigger red such as
Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon would be much more
appropriate as a pairing.
Match Flavors
There are four or five basic tastes. They are
sour, sweet, salt, bitter and the new one umani, or
savory. Pairings work best when the basic taste of
the wine and food are similar. This means making
sure that the sauce is not sweeter than the wine or
that the acid in the wine is sufficient to match the
acidity in the food. Use the dominant flavor in the
food as your guide. For example, rich and fatty
foods such as a roast beef or a prime rib usually
pairs best with tannic reds such as a California
Cabernet Sauvignon while highly acidic foods such as
salad greens, tomatoes and vinegar dressings usually
go best with acidic wines such as Verdejo or
Sauvignon Blanc. Salty or smoky flavors, like those
found in a baked ham, are best paired with fruity
and low tannin wines such as Tempranillo or Reisling.
Consider Counterpoint Flavors
Opposites sometimes do attract, therefore very hot
or spicy foods—some Thai dishes, or hot curries for
example —often work best with sweet desert wines or
Reislings. Opposing flavors can play off each other,
creating new flavor sensations and cleansing your
palate.
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